Published on January 17, 2025
Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Tropical Watch
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
It’s a mouthful: integrated-bracelet sports watch. But it’s also what one says when talking about what has inarguably been the hottest category of wristwatch for the past seven or eight years. In fact, data shows us that the integrated-bracelet sports watch has gained as much as 300 percent in value over the past two decades, with prices peaking during the pandemic and only softening in the past couple of years. We’ve considered a few of these watches in particular here in our Collecting Time column, like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and even the Royal Oak Offshore.
What we haven’t covered, however, are the wonderful offerings from Vacheron Constantin, especially the revered 222, and the Chopard Alpine Eagle, which is one of those unsung watches that, once it’s on your wrist, has you singing its praises.
Right now isn’t a bad time to be buying, largely due the aforementioned softening of prices. We’ve curated five of the very best integrate-bracelet sport watches available on the market right now. Let’s dig in.
-
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222 in Yellow Gold | Price Upon Request
Image Credit: Analog Shift In 2022, Vacheron Constantin stunned fans with the release of a new 222 in Les Historiques form. The full yellow gold execution beautifully recalled the original design language penned by Jorg Hysek in 1977. While much of the charm and form was retained, Vacheron opted to use their own caliber 2455/2 (rather than the ultra-thin JLC based caliber 920), increasing the thickness by around a millimeter. Still, a slightly more robust watch measuring 37mm x 7.95mm is nothing to scoff at. Vacheron nailed the small details with this release, from the fit and finish of each integrated link, to the luxurious dial making for a monotone appearance. The only question was whether or not we’d see it return in steel, which it officially did this week. Still, the full gold option is as compelling as ever.
This example of the Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222 comes to us from Analog Shift, where it appears to be in virtually unworn condition. With the market status of the new steel example as yet unknown, the full gold variation has made its mark, and this is about as nice of an example as you’re likely to come across. In many years time, the full gold 222 will likely remain the benchmark.
-
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 A Series | $119,000
Image Credit: Wind Vintage Naturally, we can discuss integrated bracelet sport watches without referencing the original from 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 designed by Gerald Genta. The Royal Oak was something of a revelation, and while it may have taken some time to fully catch on, it would go on to do just that. The earliest examples of the 5402 are denoted by the ‘A’ on their caseback, and they are easy to identify thanks to the placement of the ‘AP’ at six o’clock on the dial. This was (and is) a wonder of craftsmanship thanks to the beautifully designed and produced integrated bracelet by Gay Freres. It’s a watch that simply melts on the wrist, and it remains even more influential today.
This remarkable 5402 A series is available from Wind VIntage, and the case and bracelet appear to be un polished, with original age marks throughout. This feels like a well loved and respected time capsule, and represents an increasingly rare opportunity to own a piece of history. Even setting aside the considerable lore around this watch, you’re left with a truly joyous experience on the wrist, transcending its hype cycles by an order of magnitude.
-
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3800 | $78,000
Image Credit: The Keystone It’s difficult to articulate just why some of these integrated bracelet sport watches work so well in full monotone gold precious metal configurations. But they do. The other member of the original integrated sport watches, also designed by Gerald Genta, is of course the Nautilus. The reference 3800 is the second execution, which brought a new, smaller size to the table in an effort to reach a broader audience. It may not get the spotlight that the original 3700 gets, but you could easily argue it’s just as good. Especially taken in full 18k yellow gold with a champagne dial. It’s about as charming as you’ll find within the Nautilus family, and the smaller 37.5 mm case tucks in all the neater in use.
This Nautilus reference 3800 comes to us from The Keystone, and hails from the year 1983. Overall condition is listed as excellent, with an extract from the Patek Philippe archives thrown in for good measure. This is an interesting example of a historically significant watch that comes from an unexpected place, and that makes it all the better in my book.
-
Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS | $21,500
Image Credit: European Watch Company History is rife with all manner of interesting integrated sport watch designs, and some come from brands you might not expect. Such is the case with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a modern integrated bracelet sport watch based on an original design from 1980 called the St. Moritz. The design came from the brand’s own proprietor, Karl-Friederich Scheufele as he was entering the family business. This watch stood apart from its unusual bezel design, a feature retained in the modern Alpine Eagle, though it’s been smoothed out a bit to better align with modern tastes. What makes the Alpine Eagle so compelling is Chopard’s use of dial textures and colors, as well as their willingness to tap into their movement innovation.
That’s exactly what we find here with the XPS Alpine Eagle that showcases a brilliant salmon color dial with a spiral design that evokes the interior of an Eagle’s eye, naturally. While this model clocks in at a healthy 41 mm, it’s also a mere 8 mm in thickness, making for a surprisingly pleasant experience on the wrist. This example, from the European Watch Company, is listed in like new condition, and comes as a full kit. It’s an impressive, and unexpected entry to the list that deserves a second look.
-
Vacheron Constantin 222 Two-Toned | $23,850
Image Credit: Tropical Watch Finally, we’re closing with another Vacheron Constantin 222, this one from the mid ‘80s representing a rarely seen side of the watch’s history. This is a mid-sized 222 that measures 34mm in diameter, and most importantly, gets a two-toned case consisting of steel and yellow gold. This configuration is controversial, but due to the design of the 222’s bracelet, it stands apart as an utterly unique take on the concept. This also means it can be had for a far more reasonable sum, and just as importantly, you’re unlikely to come across another at your local meetup.
This 222 comes to us from Tropical Watch, and features a beautifully preserved case with sharp lines and chamfers intact. If you love the idea of a 222 but want to get off the beaten path a bit, this is the watch for you. This watch comes with a VC leather box, and a bracelet that will fit up a 6.9 inch wrist.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
Authors
-
Blake Buettner
-
Allen Farmelo
Credit: robbreport.com
