What Peptide Lip Balms Can (Or Can’t) Do To Improve Your Lips

If you’ve walked down a lip balm aisle lately, you’ve probably seen the word “peptide” on various brands. Peptides are essentially molecules of amino acids that are rich in protein. Although the body makes its own peptides – more than 7,000 of them — which are necessary for a whole slew of different bodily functions, some products, especially skincare lines, have begun pushing the idea that we need even more peptides for our skin to look and feel hydrated, youthful, and overall fantastic. But are additional peptides really something we need?

“Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins — collagen and elastin are two proteins that help to maintain the skin’s structure and integrity,” dermatologist Dr. Ellie Rashid told Vogue UK. “In skincare, peptides are used to signal the assemblance of collagen protein chains that link together to provide structural support in the skin. They penetrate the top layer of the skin and lips and signal to the fibroblast cells to boost collagen production, repair damage, or enhance hydration.”

It’s no secret that collagen production starts to slow in our mid-20s and cell damage is an inevitable part of the aging process no matter how dedicated you are to using SPF, but if our body makes its own peptides, should we still be opting for lip balm that contains peptides over those that don’t? It depends on your lip goals, so to speak. 

The two most important components to healthy skin are collagen and elastin. Because peptides are the building blocks of these particular proteins, then there are definitely some benefits in using lip balms that contain them. According to the Cleveland Clinic, 30% of the body’s protein is composed of collagen. Collagen is a key player in helping to prevent wrinkles, crepey skin, and other signs of oxidation in the epidermis. Elastin, too, is another protein that the body has a lot of, and its job is to give the body the ability to stretch easily.

In using peptides in lip balms, especially as you get older, you’re giving your body what it’s naturally losing on its own, as well as keeping your lips extra hydrated and looking plump and firm. “Peptides also improve skin density and elasticity, which will help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on and around the lips,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rachel Westbay told Byrdie. In other words, if you want to keep your mouth, and the area around it, looking and feeling youthful and you’d prefer to skip injections, then lip balm with peptides just might give you the boost you’ve been looking for.

According to a 2018 study published in Molecules, although peptides are less likely than many dermatological substances to cause an allergy, the risk is still there — as it is for just about anything — so that’s something to be aware of, especially if you’ve never used peptides before. However, for most people, peptides are not a problem. “Anyone can benefit from peptides in lip treatment as they essentially have no side effects,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Azadeh Shirazi told Elle. “They’re gentle on the skin and don’t cause irritation.”

But where you could run into an issue with peptides is if you don’t have realistic expectations. Yes, the benefits include preventing fine lines and even plumping your lips a bit, but if you have very thin lips and hope a peptide lip gloss is going to give you Angelina Jolie’s pout in a matter of seconds, you’re in for some major disappointment. Also, if you already have deep wrinkles around your mouth, either from a lifetime of smoking or due to age, again, you can’t expect peptides to turn back the hands of time. For drastic changes that aren’t just visible to you, but to others, you should talk to your dermatologist about in-office procedures or other options. Peptides can help step up hydration and collagen in your lips, but they can’t work miracles.