Published on April 1, 2025
Patek Philippe
Unveiled earlier today at Watches & Wonders 2025 in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s new releases suggest a brand quietly in control of its next chapter. Rather than making noise with radical departures or unexpected redesigns, the Swiss watchmaker is favoring evolution over revolution—tightening its core collections, refining recent launches, and gently rebalancing form and function across the board.
The message is one of depth over disruption: from the new Ref. 5308G-001 Quadruple Complication—a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar rolled into one ice-blue statement—to the reworked Cubitus, now downsized to a more wearable 40 mm.
Marking a hundred years since its first perpetual calendar wristwatch, Patek Philippe has also introduced four new perpetual calendar references, including two Twenty~4 models and the technically impressive Ref. 6159G. Meanwhile, the Calatrava 8-Day shows how even understated time-and-date watches can push the envelope.
So, what’s the overall direction of the historic Geneva maison? A tilt toward technical subtlety, size restraint, and more integrated design thinking. Dials look cleaner, cases a touch more compact, and the finishing details just that little bit sharper. Even the new gem-set Nautilus Haute Joaillerie feels more architectural than ostentatious. This isn’t about shock value—it’s Patek Philippe reinforcing its foundations while pushing into more nuanced territory.
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Ref. 5308G-001—Quadruple Complication
Image Credit: Patek Philippe First revealed in platinum at Patek Philippe’s Tokyo exhibition in 2023, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent memory returns in a sharper, more refined guise. The new 5308G enters the maison’s collection boasting a white gold case with skeletonized lugs and a cool, contemporary sunburst ice blue dial in blue metallized white gold.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, it also bears a seven-figure price tag. Its impressive movement, Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI, combines a minute repeater, split-seconds monopusher chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar in a relatively slim 42 mm case—along with patented upgrades. Most notable are a redesigned isolator for the rattrapante and an anti-backlash clutch wheel that prevents vibration of the chronograph sweep-seconds.
The day, date, month, and leap year indications all jump in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it 30 milliseconds. This isn’t just a grand complication—it’s Patek at full precision throttle.
Case size: 42 mm
Case material: White gold
Water resistance: Humidity- and dust-protected only
Strap: Shiny navy blue alligator leather
Movement: Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI
Price: CHF 1,050,000 -
Ref. 7128/1G & Ref. 7128/1R—Cubitus 40mm
Image Credit: Patek Philippe When the Cubitus launched last year in a bold 45 mm format, it split opinion—not least because its sheer scale left many wondering who, exactly, it was for. With this year’s follow-up, the Geneva brand manages to address that concern.
Now offered in 40 mm, these latest Cubitus models are scaled for comfort without diluting the design’s geometric punch. Available in white gold with a blue dial or rose gold with a brown dial, both versions retain the rounded rectangular case and integrated bracelet, but now feel far more wearable on a range of wrists. A date at three o’clock and central seconds keep the layout pure and clean.
To the doubters, this size refinement might just prove that Cubitus is a collection with staying power.
Case size: 40 mm
Case material: White gold or rose gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Bracelet: Integrated gold bracelet with folding clasp
Movement: Caliber 26‑330 S C/434
Price: CHF 65,000 -
Ref. 5811/1460G-001—Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
Image Credit: Patek Philippe Even by Nautilus standards, this one turns heads. Patek Philippe’s new high-jewelry version of the 5811 is set with more than 1,400 diamonds, arranged in baguette and brilliant cuts to follow the watch’s signature curves and facets. Indeed, the 41 mm white gold case and bracelet are paved in a pattern that enhances, rather than overwhelms, the Nautilus silhouette.
The bezel alone carries 4.84 carats of baguette-cut diamonds, while the dial is set with nearly 300 round stones, plus baguette-cut indices. In total, the watch features more than 19 carats of diamonds, but the proportions remain unmistakably Nautilus. Underneath all the dazzle is the 26-330 S movement with central seconds and a stop-seconds function for precision setting.
It’s one of the most extravagant versions of the 5811 to date, and one of the boldest expressions of the modern Nautilus aesthetic.
Also on the Nautilus front, Patek Philippe introduced a pair of white-gold, gem-set, quartz-powered Ladies’ Nautilus models (Ref. 7010G-013 and Ref. 7010/1G-013). These are distinguished by lacquered azure blue dials, offered on either an azure fabric strap or gold bracelet.
Case size: 41 mm
Case material: White gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Bracelet: White gold with patented fold-over clasp
Movement: Caliber 26-330 S
Gem-setting: 1,480 diamonds (19.70 carats)
Price: CHF 540,000 -
Ref. 5328G-001—Calatrava 8-Day
Image Credit: Patek Philippe For a brand known for perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, a time-and-date watch might seem a relatively modest offering for Patek Philippe. But the new 5328G proves that technical chops don’t need to shout: This is the first Calatrava to combine an eight-day manual movement with an instantaneous day-date display.
The newly developed caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J features two barrels and a Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar. Notably, the ninth “reserve” day appears in red on the power-reserve indicator, and both the day and date jump crisply at midnight. The white gold case features a full hobnail guilloché along the caseband, while the dial—textured blue with a black-gradient rim—offers a contemporary spin.
It’s an unusually technical Calatrava, built to be used—and not reset—on Monday mornings.
Case size: 41 mm
Case material: White gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Straps: Navy blue calfskin and taupe calfskin
Movement: Caliber 31‑505 8J PS IRM CI J
Price: CHF 60,000 -
Ref. 5370R-001—Split-Seconds Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe One of Patek Philippe’s most sought-after chronographs returns in a warmer, richer execution. Previously offered in white gold, the 5370 now makes its debut in rose gold with rectangular pushers and a Grand Feu brown enamel dial featuring beige subdials, plus a tachymeter scale rendered in champlevé enamel.
Inside is the distinguished CHR 29‑535 PS movement, a manually wound, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel, horizontal clutch, and seven patented features—including one specific to the rattrapante system. This isn’t a redesign, just a recontextualization: the same perfectly balanced 41 mm case, but now its gilded tones are matched with a dark chestnut strap and a new triple-blade folding clasp.
For collectors who missed it the first time—or simply wanted it warmer—this update hits just right.
Case size: 41 mm
Case material: Rose gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Shiny dark chestnut alligator leather
Movement: Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS
Price: CHF 245,000 -
Ref. 4946R-001—Annual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe A smaller, softer take on one of Patek Philippe’s signature complications. The new 4946R updates the Annual Calendar with a 38 mm rose gold case—compact, cleanly proportioned, and now without gem-setting. It is paired with a warm chestnut dial featuring a vertically and horizontally brushed “shantung” finish.
Powered by the caliber 26‑330 S QA LU, it offers day, date, and month indications (with only one correction per year), along with sweep seconds and moonphases. The denim-pattern calfskin strap adds a neat casual accent that echoes the dial’s eye-catching texture.
It may be overshadowed by Patek Philippe’s more complicated launches this year, but for real-world wear, this is one of the more versatile new references in the brand’s catalog.
Case size: 38 mm
Case material: Rose gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Chestnut calfskin with denim pattern
Movement: Caliber 26‑330 S QA LU
Price: CHF 47,000 -
Ref. 7340/1R—Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendars
Image Credit: Patek Philippe For the first time, the Twenty~4 collection enters complication territory with the introduction of a perpetual calendar—powered by the ultra-thin caliber 240 Q with micro-rotor, and housed in a 36 mm rose gold case (without a single diamond in sight). It’s not just the most mechanically significant Twenty~4 to date; it’s also the first round version in the collection to be offered without gem-setting.
The dial layouts will be familiar to Patek collectors: day, date, and month in three subdials, plus a moonphase aperture and a 24-hour indicator. Ref. 7340/1R-001 features a silver-toned dial with a vertical and horizontal “shantung” finish, while Ref. 7340/1R-010 introduces a slightly bolder, sunburst olive green version.
These releases help to reposition the Twenty~4 as more than a style piece, adding horological substance in a way that still feels elegant and understated.
Case size: 36 mm
Case material: Rose gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Integrated rose gold bracelet with patented fold-over clasp
Movement: Caliber 240 Q
Price: CHF 102,000 -
Ref. 5524G-010—Calatrava Pilot
Image Credit: Patek Philippe A familiar reference returns with a softer, more vintage inflection. The 5524G, Patek Philippe’s bold take on the travel watch, now appears in white gold with an ivory lacquered dial and a khaki green strap made of composite material with a fabric-style texture.
The update is visual only, but effective. The blackened white gold numerals and warm-toned dial lend a more relaxed air to the Pilot’s otherwise assertive personality. Inside, the caliber 26‑330 S C FUS powers the local and home time displays, complete with day/night indicators and a date hand tied to local time.
It’s a subtle evolution of a slightly divisive modern classic—and possibly the most alluring version yet.
Case size: 42 mm
Case material: White gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Khaki green composite with fabric motif
Movement: Caliber 26‑330 S C FUS
Price: CHF 51,700 -
Ref. 6196P-001—Calatrava
Image Credit: Patek Philippe No complication, no diamonds, no backstory—just one of the cleanest, crispest Calatravas in years. The new Ref. 6196P arrives in a 38 mm platinum case with a rose-gilt opaline dial, faceted obus-style markers, and a small seconds subdial at six o’clock. There’s a single diamond discreetly set into the caseband at 6 o’clock, in keeping with Patek Philippe’s tradition for platinum watches.
Power comes from the manual-wind caliber 30-255 PS, with a 65-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds function for precise setting. Paired with a chocolate brown alligator strap, the overall effect is refined and architectural—perfectly in tune with the growing appetite for smaller, manually wound dress watches with clean architecture and genuine wrist presence.
It’s Patek Philippe doing what it does best, without fanfare.
Case size: 38 mm
Case material: Platinum
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Shiny chocolate brown alligator leather
Movement: Caliber 30‑255 PS
Price: CHF 40,000 -
Ref.6159G-001—Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe A subtly eye-catching highlight of this year’s releases, the new 6159G brings a sapphire dial and a modern mood to one of Patek Philippe’s most refined perpetual calendar formats.
This is a retrograde display with day, month, leap year, and moonphase indications set in crisp apertures—now outlined in gray electroplating and placed over a smoked, metallized sapphire dial that gives a tantalizing, filtered view of the movement beneath.
At 39.5 mm, it wears snugly, and the case features hobnail guilloché on both the bezel and the caseback—a nod to classic Calatrava signatures, but with a contemporary twist.
Inside is the self-winding caliber 26-330 S QR with sweep seconds and a retrograde hand that snaps back to 1 on the first of each month. And yet, for all its mechanical wizardry, it’s this watch’s restraint that perhaps resonates most.
Case size: 39.5 mm
Case material: White gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Strap: Black composite strap
Movement: Caliber 26‑330 S QR
Price: CHF 100,000 -
Ref. 27000M-001—Complicated Desk Clock
Image Credit: Patek Philippe It’s not a wristwatch, but it might be the most poetic piece in this year’s Patek Philippe lineup. The Ref. 27000M-001 is a majestic, hand-finished sterling silver desk clock powered by a movement that took seven years to develop and contains 912 components.
This piece follows on from the unique piece Patek Philippe created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2021—and which sold for CHF 9.5 million—which reinterpreted the company’s historic clock gifted to James Packard in 1923.
But this modern version goes further than the 1923 original. The newly developed caliber 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE offers a perpetual calendar, week display, moon phases, and jumping seconds, and it boasts a precision mechanism capable of +/- 1 second per day accuracy over its 31-day power reserve. Nine patents were filed in its creation.
The verdant case, rendered in sterling silver and decorated with hand-guilloché flinqué enamel in green, feels as much like a cabinet of horological curiosities as it does an actual clock.
Dimensions: 164.6 x 125 x 76.73 mm
Material: Sterling silver with green flinqué enamel panels, vermeil decorative elements
Movement: Caliber 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE
Price: CHF 1,000,000
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