What It’s Like to Stay at Flockhill Lodge, the Ultimate Alpine Lodge in New Zealand

Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.

In three words: Authentic alpine elegancy.  

What’s the deal? 

The South Island of New Zealand is unrivaled from geological drama. Its Southern Alps are where Hollywood films fantasy flicks, skiers slide and Americans flock like sheep to get an easy eyeful. An hour’s drive out of Christchurch you’ll feel like you’re in Switzerland as the road undulates up winding mountain roads tempting you to stop at every look out. Soon you’ll arrive at Flockhill, a working sheep station founded in 1857 on 36,000 acres in the Craigieburn Valley. (For even more drama arrive via helicopter, as a great many do). 

But don’t let the words “working farm” frighten you. Yes, there are something like 10,500 Merino-Romney sheep and 400 head of cattle here—not to mention working dogs, horses, and hundreds of hectares of crops—but you won’t be rising with the sun or earning your supper. In 2022, the property opened its Homestead, an ultra-exclusive private “home” that can host up to eight billionaires, A-list celebrities, or professional sport team owners in its four bedrooms. More recently, the locale has added a small fleet of standalone villas that can be configured as individual suites or junior suites as required, giving the property a true lodge or resort feel. 

Days are about activities—arranged at the barn. They range from gorgeous guided hikes and farm tours to mountain biking and fly-fishing.

The best room: 

That’s the Homestead. While the rest of the lodge is still coming along—there is a spa, gym, and other amenities in the works—you won’t have to sacrifice a single whim as a Homestead resident. It has a private pool looking out over the valley, and it’s positioned above the rest of the resort to maximize views. Plus, it has a private chef and private staff. It’s like buying out a boutique hotel. Rates are roughly $7,387 per night May through October and roughly three times that amount during the holiday season. 

The Rundown

Did they greet you by name at check-in? 

The staff that would be looking after me throughout my stay were waiting on the doorstep as my car pulled in. They knew exactly who I was (likely tipped off by the intercom at the gate) and were ready to take my luggage, valet-park my car, and show me to my villa. 

Welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived? Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice. 

At reception, I was offered water—but ask and almost anything you want can appear. The front desk is flanked by the lodge’s bar at the rear (and its signature restaurant, Sugarloaf, across the lounge). The large open space is like a moody modern barn, with a massive warming hearth at its center. But forget your last trip to Montana. It has a darker, sexier, and far more sophisticated ambiance. Thank local architecture firm Warren & Mahoney.

Does the hotel have a standout perk?

You are here, primarily, for the natural splendor and a tiny taste of authentic farm life. After that, everything else is gravy. And speaking of gravy, it’s the restaurant that will put this place on the map. Opened in December, Sugarloaf is manned by former Sydney-based chef Taylor Cullen, who is taking a Noma-inspired approach to the menu of simple, hyper-local, ever-changing dishes. Meals can look something like oysters with beef fat, grilled salad, fermented corn, and yogurt or kingfish, hay, and XO. He points out that, geographically speaking, Denmark is about as far north as Flockhill is south and therefore many of the same preparations and techniques apply. So a huge amount of the farm-fresh plants, fruits, and meats on the menu have been precisely pickled, fermented or aged. Even the gorgeous local catches are dry-aged. And, in case you wondered, it works. Expect critical acclaim any moment now. No wonder people helicopter in just for lunch. (P.S.: your meals are included in your stay). 

Private butler for every room?

No. But call or head to the desk if you want anything at all anytime. Seriously.

Sheet thread count 300 or higher?

Yes, and the bedding is warm and soft—but it’s the bedside fire that will keep you warm on frosty New Zealand nights. Rooms are formatted with a bed facing a small patio looking out toward the mountains. A closet fills the half wall behind your headboard. A small wet bar and coffee station is there, too. If you choose to book the full suite, you get a lounge with a fireplace, a full kitchen, and a dining table. It has a separate patio with yet another (this time outdoor) fireplace.

Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?

The villa bathrooms are massive works of minimalism in wide, gray stone, making them feel like mini modern art museums. And, yes, the floor is heated for those chilly alpine eves. Spa-inspired treats seem to appear in your bathroom at turndown. There’s a large bath with plenty of room for two and an oversize shower. No bidet, though.

Are the toiletries full sized?

Yes, and they aren’t the generic name-brand luxury soaps you know. The lodge is using local Kiwi brand Sans (Ceuticals), which uses only sustainable ingredients with no harmful additives and no animal testing, artificial colors, or fragrances (get the name now?). But be warned, its website is oddly NSFW.

Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use? How are the spa and gym?

None of the above are available for villa guests, so check into the Homestead for those treats. But give the property time: More is on the way, with a spa and plenty more planned. The lodge villas are a brand-new product, after all. 

Is there caviar on the room service menu? If so, what kind?

There’s no room service here—that is unless you are at the Homestead, in which case you’ll have a private chef at beck and call. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served steps away at Sugarloaf. Order the entire menu for a bit of fun and turn it into a tasting menu. You can have whatever you want. But if caviar is what you crave, let the chef know. He has a stash. 

Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?

You certainly should. The workers here tend to be seasoned international youths, and they bring the flavor of their countries with them. My Parisian bartender was on a classic cocktail kick. The bar also does gratis tastings of, say, vermouth or some other inebriate prior to dinner. It becomes quite a social atmosphere. The bar is also used to catering to the tastes of American guests, so expect a good stock of bourbons and tequilas. But our advice is to stick to good Kiwi wines that never make it to the USA. They’re far superior to that sweet and fruity Sauvignon Blanc you’re used to.

Would you buy the hotel if you could?

Yes, please. The luxury lodge scene is a crowded space in NZ. It’s hard to break through and insert yourself into the circuit. It’s something this American-owned resort has done with relative ease. Its stock will only rise. 

The Verdict 

Robot lawn mowers cruise day and night over vast lawns where newly planted landscaping is only beginning to establish itself. The quality of the light, the depth of the greens, and the shadows on the mountains give this place an otherworldly aura. You may think you’ve come to conquer those mountains on full day treks or challenge yourself with other rugged outdoor adventures. Instead, you’ll find yourself slowing down, breathing in, and pouring one more glass of wine in front of the fireplace in your room.

Rates: from $2,141 per night in a for two guests in a junior suite. 

Score: 9

What Our Score Means: 
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here. 
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch. 
7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms. 
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?

Credit: robbreport.com