I visited David Seth Moltz and Kavi Durga, the founders and perfumers behind the artisanal luxury fragrance house D.S. & Durga, at their Brooklyn Navy Yard office this past winter. For a scent fanatic, it was olfactory heaven. Inside Moltz’s office, shelves were filled with tinctures and bottles of various fragrance oils; he’d excitedly grab one, hand it over, and ask me to take a whiff before breaking down how it worked in a “fume,” as the brand so endearingly calls their creations. At one point, Moltz even offered me a sneak preview of his latest work-in-progress.
Now, that project is officially out: The Colognes, a limited-edition trio that nods to classic aromatic tradition. Each cologne is fresh and easy to wear, yet elevated and nuanced, with fragrance pyramids laced with nostalgia and reimagined through D.S. & Durga’s distinct, modern lens. If you have an affinity for the classic cologne genre (which we’ll get into), and if you—or your dad, ahem, Father’s Day—just want to smell damn good this summer, there’s a cologne in this collection that absolutely earns a spot in your rotation.
What’s a Classic Cologne?
Even if you’re not a full-on fragrance obsessive, you’re likely familiar with the classic cologne category. There’s history here: your dad and grandad likely had a bottle sitting in the medicine cabinet that would now be considered a “classic cologne.” It’s a broad category, but most share a fresh, clean, aromatic profile, often grounded in the fougère family, featuring lavender, herbs, or moss. Think of an old-school Italian barbershop: bright, green, citrus, florals, and woods, sometimes with a hint of spice or sweetness. Over the years, that DNA has been diluted, folded into the world of sporty or aquatic scents, with so many riffs and remixes that the lines have blurred.
Naturally, Moltz, a self-taught and highly experimental perfumer, wanted to tap into the original lineage. “I love old-fashioned dude fumes,” he says. “I’ve made many for personal use over the years. People sniffed them and wanted them, so I thought it could be great to add them to our line.” But this collection is about more than just nostalgia. “I love to explore a collection like this- the evolution of the sports fragrance, scents that conjure suiting materials, and traditional nautical colognes,” he said. Modernizing the category is tricky, as they can often skew stuffy, dated, or smell like everything else. “Many of the classics have been reformulated or just smell out of place today—too heavy, too cloying, too old,” Moltz said. “It’s like a blazer from the ’70s that doesn’t fit right. You love the vibe but wish it was cut in a way that doesn’t look costumey.”
How Are D.S. & Durga’s New Colognes Different?
This brings us to D.S. & Durga’s new trio of distinct aromatic scents: a verdant and green fougère; a regal, woodsy floral; and a breezy, spicy summer stunner. Each takes cues from a classic cologne archetype but is reimagined through D.S. & Durga’s intricate compositions and meticulously sourced ingredients. “The fumes are pretty classical in construction,” Moltz explains. “There’s an emphasis on materials we’ve been using since the late 19th century—citrus, woods, moss, and spices.” However, this isn’t about recreating vintage formulas note for note. “That’s not to say I didn’t use modern molecules to make those shine in a new way,” he adds. “The colognes should smell familiar but be dosed and reimagined for modern tastes. I don’t want to wear an old bottle from the ’40s. I want to take that signature and make it for now.”
Moltz is also a style guy, and we geeked out just as much about menswear (which also influenced this launch) as we did scents. You can envision the retro piqué polo on the fairway in Golf Jazz or the Shetland wool blazer in Grey Blazer. “I think we’re on the 20-year loop of caring about classic fits,” Moltz says. “The last time was the early aughts. Suits, ties, and classic colognes. I hope this line will offer new takes on classic aromatic fits of the past and make them wearable.” And to my nose, that’s precisely what The Colognes do. They honor tradition while painting fresh olfactory portraits for today: artful, elevated, and easy to wear, each scent takes you somewhere unique.
Here, a look at what makes each scent special:
Golfjazz is a sweet, verdant stunner. The name is a whimsical ode to the sport with a nostalgic undertone- think back to a time when power golfers ruled the greens, and 1980s advertisements cemented that whole aesthetic. “Golfjazz is a deep, grassy leather affair made for armchair putting. It’s a very ’80s power golf/red pants/New England vibe,” Moltz says. Fresh-cut grass comes through heavily upon the first spritz, with lime adding citrusy brightness. Mint adds cool freshness, while moss and patchouli bring a fougère earthiness. Upon drydown, the base of cypress and cedarwood gives it woodsy depth, with a subtle leather accord adding a touch of smoky, old-school charm. You can almost picture a retro green bottle sitting in your dad’s medicine cabinet, but this is the modern version you’ll want to wear now —a daily driver that’ll take you from the fairway to the clubhouse, whether you golf or not. If your aromatic vibe leans toward fresh, green, and sweet, this is a winner on and off the course.
Rum Bay Rum is D.S. & Durga’s elevated take on the classic bay rum cologne—a nod to old-school apothecary aftershaves but with more staying power and sophistication. “Rum Bay Rum is my take on a classic Bay Rum that lasts. It is delicately spiced and softened with linden flowers and sandalwood. A perfect scent for boating—or pretending you’re on a boat,” Moltz says. You get a crisp hit of linen and lime from the top, giving it a breezy freshness. But it’s the heart where this scent comes alive- clove, berries, and rose swirl into a sandalwood base, forming a spicy-woody floral that’s fresh, tropical, and gentlemanly. There’s no vetiver here, but this cologne will resonate if you’re a fan of that verdant note. Rum Bay Rum is an evening scent you wear while sipping a cocktail, with ocean breezes and waves crashing nearby, or simply channeling Caribbean schooner energy from your apartment window. Sexy, chic, and transportive.
When I first smelled Grey Blazer, I thought, “This is what the Armani-clad power brokers of the ’80s and ’90s would’ve worn on their morning commutes.” But while it channels that classic woodsy-spice vibe, this is a more nuanced and artisanal take that would wear well for anyone, anywhere, just as fitting in the English countryside layered under a soft Shetland wool blazer as in the city. “Grey Blazer is an everyday scent—office to evening,” Moltz says. “It’s like a gray blazer: the jacket that works on anyone regardless of gender.” It opens with that familiar cool green spice found in classic colognes, then unfurls into hedgerow florals and carnation, lending a soft sweetness. Guaiac wood anchors the base, while lavender adds a refined herbal twist. Like the other scents, Grey Blazer is aromatic but also has a regal edge. Very versatile, it would wear well for elegant summer soirées and countryside strolls alike—no estate required.
Authors
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Michael Stefanov
Credit: robbreport.com
