When it was introduced in 2000, the Chanel J12 (affectionately pronounced J Douze in French) instantly became a symbol of contemporary watchmaking, thanks to its landmark use of a ceramic case and bracelet. But until now, the resulting line’s many references were available in only white or black.
“It was evident from the start that we could make other colors,” says Frédéric Grangié, president of Chanel Watches and Fine Jewelry. “And we are. But the one [we] bring to the market had to remain. It has to stay. So, J12 started black. Three years later, white. For its 25-year anniversary, it’s blue.”
42 mm J12 Bleu Sapphires
Courtesy of Chanel
Though it might be a timeless shade, this is no ordinary blue. As with the best innovations in watchmaking, the deep, rich hue required time—five years of research and development—to complete. That’s because coloring ceramic is a labor-intensive process, especially if you want to create a consistent level of durability and luminous depth across batches.
To enhance the color’s allure, Chanel has developed nine new references in the blue material, underscoring its striking visual appeal with black PVD-treated elements. There are even haute horlogerie variations that incorporate blue sapphires and a diamond-set tourbillon. An ultra-limited transparent-blue-sapphire watch, the ultimate flex, ensures the range has something for almost everyone.
Chanel 38 mm J12 Bleu X-Ray
Courtesy of Chanel
“The J12 Bleu looks and feels different from the black and the white versions, the original watches,” Grangié says. “It is quite a departure, thanks to its finishing, which is matte and slightly satin. I’m sure that the existing clientele for J12 will enjoy this one, but I think it will also open up the market to a new, different clientele.”
Though it has many fans now, the original J12 was born out of a personal project. In 2000, Jacques Helleu—then artistic director for Chanel’s fragrances, beauty, watches, and jewelry—sought to design a watch for himself, one that stood apart from the maison’s signature camellias and pearls. He found inspiration in the aerodynamic lines of J-Class yachts and named his finished design for the company’s 12-meter racing class.
38 mm J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon
Courtesy of Chanel
In 2019, Chanel reinforced its horological credibility by introducing an in-house J12 movement developed with Kenissi, a renowned Swiss manufacturer cofounded by Chanel and Tudor. The COSC-certified Caliber 12.1 elevated the J12’s precision and reliability, turning it into a watch—and a brand—aficionados could get behind. No shortage of bona fide collectors have added a Chanel watch to their vaults. Case in point: Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary recently purchased a one-of-a-kind Chanel Boy. Friend model at a Phillips auction for nearly $250,000.
As Chanel celebrates two and a half decades of the J12, this blue-hued transformation is more than an aesthetic shift—it’s an assertion of strength and intent. “The J12 is here to stay,” says Grangié. “Twenty-five years later, the watch world is taking notice. The J12 evolves, but with the same model and reference design for 25 years, it starts getting serious.”
Credit: robbreport.com
