When it comes to red-carpet jewelry, some translate better than others. But this year’s subject, “Superfine: Tailoring, Black Style,” was right on the money—or the opulent diamond brooch, rather. The theme of the evening reflected that of this year’s Costume Institute exhibition, which examines the origins and intricacies of Black dandyism through its history, inspired by guest curator Monica Miller’s 2009 book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.

Those intricacies include a sharp focus on the accessories that have helped to define the look of the Black dandy, from two-toned brogues, pocket squares, and custom fedoras to refined watches and, yes, the jeweled lapel pin or brooch. 

There was no shortage of the current on this year’s carpet. But even where they weren’t part of a look, this year’s best jewelry channeled the opulence of the lapel accessory, through highly detailed craftsmanship and the occasional gigantic gemstone—all impeccably placed and worn with the swagger of a true dandy.

Here, the Met Gala’s best jewelry moments from the star-studded carpet.