The holy grail of red carpet fashion, the Academy Awards is the moment when stars bring their sartorial best. More and more, that means collaborating with a major luxury fashion house on a gown or tuxedo, an endeavor that can take weeks or months and an army of seamstresses, tailors and artisans. That effort also translates to the world of jewelry, where pieces can be customized to their A-list wearers, or selected from jewelry maisons’ annual high jewelry collections and archival curations—both of which offer handmade works that often take exponentially longer than their accompanying couture gowns to create. From stone sourcing and matching (an endeavor that can take years, even decades), to intricate goldsmithing and hand finishing, Oscars jewelry is always a labor of love. 

The jewelry theme of this year’s Academy Awards was undoubtedly diamonds—even Doja Cat sang “Diamonds Are Forever,” the classic made famous by Shirley Bassey, in tribute to the . On the red carpet, there were many classic diamond colliers and bibs, from Mikey Madison’s Tiffany & Co. Edwardian era piece to Scarlett Johansson’s De Beers drop necklace with almost 75 carats of diamonds. Others chose traditional diamond necklaces but wore them with a literal twist:  Margaret Qualley’s Chanel High Jewelry diamond lariat-style necklace was turned to the back, as was Michelle Yeoh’s diamond tie-necklace from Boucheron. Of course, there were plenty of , extending last year’s men’s lapel pin trend in new, creative ways.

Here, a closer look at the best jewelry from the big night.