This Limited-Edition Cashmere Sweatsuit Might Be Too Luxe to Wear With Sneakers

Not too long ago, ‘athleisure’ was the undisputed buzzword of the fashion world. Fueled by the pandemic, our wardrobe choices revolved around ‘comfies’ – sweats, joggers, and, at a push, elegant pyjamas – as we collectively forgot the existence of structured, corporate clothing. But then, the floodgates opened. Suddenly, we were relishing the opportunity to dress up again, not just out of necessity but for the sheer pleasure of it. Fast forward to today, the balance has been restored, and as ‘quiet luxury’ continues to hold a grip over the industry and consumer behaviours, our style choices have settled into a more refined, understated rhythm.

Cutler is a brand that embodies quiet refinement – a little-known name, for now, founded by Tenzin French, an early 30-something Englishman who lives by his own philosophy. Over coffee, dressed in a sharp, ‘70s-inspired suit with a tab-collar shirt, he tells me, “If you’re going to do something, do it to the absolute best of your ability. I have a deep appreciation for things of quality, for things of beauty, and for things that have been thoughtfully considered. Fortunately, these qualities often go hand in hand, but for me, anything I bring into the world must meet those standards. I hate fast trends and built-in obsolescence.” And he’s done exactly that.

Enter Gemino: a two-piece sweasuit which can only be described as the most luxurious yet understated cashmere separates (sold separately; top £2,300 and bottom £2,100) ever made, which would certainly give a small handful of extremely prominent Italian brands a run for their Euros. Available in three sophisticated shades – carbon, affogato, and flute (a light, blue-tinged grey) – it’s spun from 100% cashmere sourced from a prestigious Italian mill regarded as the world’s finest, and knitted to be a double-faced jersey, which is unusual. It’s substantial enough to be worn like everyday clothing, particularly the carbon iteration, which is sleek, more than comfortable enough for lounging around at home, and durable enough to travel with – it really is a go-anywhere set.

“Your typical jersey contains around 200 grams of yarn. Ours contains nearly four times that, requiring an entire kilo to produce the finished piece,” he explains. “Most brands want to cut costs and maximise margins, whereas we take the opposite approach and want to make the most luxurious, comfortable clothing possible, whatever the cost” Unlike wool, which is typically heavier, cashmere isn’t known for its durability, particularly in high-stress areas such as elbows and knees. However, by doubling up on the raw material and crafting a denser garment, its longevity is significantly enhanced—provided it’s cared for properly.

As if I weren’t already impressed, Tenzin has, through sheer persistence and sharp negotiation skills, convinced a small team of London artisans to bring his vision to life, providing them with materials from only the very best suppliers worldwide – despite facing multiple rejections at first. He prefers to keep their name under wraps, but their reputation speaks for itself. They’re the quiet force behind some of the industry’s biggest names, including one of Britain’s most celebrated designers, crafting exclusive, one-of-a-kind pieces for high-profile runway shows.

For anyone with a hankering for nostalgia, the design of Gemino will be most welcomed, as it’s inspired by mid-century sportswear. “Whether it’s Ali training in his gym or university students running track, I love the high waists and cropped bodies, and the drape that only a well-worn jersey has. I wanted to take the silhouette, the comfort, and the sense of safety that comes with your favourite, often handed-down jumper or bottoms, and reimagine them in their most luxurious form.” he explains. There’s no branding or overbearing design, just simplicity done to an excellent standard.

True luxury is an experience with numerous touchpoints, and making a garment of outstanding quality and design still requires further support, which comes in the way of its presentation. The Gemino tracksuit from Cutler comes in a stunning, rigid box with a hand-signed card denoting its exclusiveness (each garment is limited to 17 pieces). Even the paper stock is impressive; it’s printed in Mayfair and adorned by hand by a uniquely talented calligrapher using bespoke-made ink. This is because Tenzin envisions Cutler as much of a service company as it is a product company, and references May Angelou’s famous quote: “People don’t remember what you said; they remember how you made them feel” – Buying from a brand you love is rarely just about the product – it’s about your entire journey from the moment you first discover them to, ultimately, the day you die.”

For a brand that’s little over a year old, to debut with such opulence is a statement and a half. Tenzin’s plans transcend clothing – ”I want to seamlessly merge the worlds of clothing, interiors, and hospitality, to name a few” – and there’s no doubt that this is a name to watch and watch closely. And I have no doubts that established brands will soon be taking notes, if they’re not already.

Credit: robbreport.com