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What Will Rolex Release at Watches and Wonders? We Asked the Experts.

This story is from an installment of In the Loupe, our weekly insider newsletter about the best of the watch world. Sign up here.

By now, most Rolex fans have almost certainly heard the “news.” At next week’s Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, the brand is introducing an industrialized version of the natural escapement, throwing down the gauntlet in the precision wars (here’s looking at you, Omega). And: Rolex is unveiling a new collection, the “Land-Dweller,” which borrows the design language of the brand’s 1970 Ref. 5100, its very first quartz model. And: Rolex is adding a yellow gold Daytona with a turquoise dial to the lineup. Etc. etc.

Rolex “leaks”—complete with realistic-looking images—are nothing new. “We see similar renders surface every year,” Jarrod Cooper, founder of the Neighborhood Watch Club in L.A., says. “With the advancements in Photoshop and AI, it’s hard to believe they’re genuine.”

What makes the 2025 rumors so compelling, however, is that a few of them seem to be backed up by intellectual property filings (in the case of the natural escapement leak, for example, Rolex has, apparently, filed a patent).

Rolex “Texano” (photo courtesy of Menta Watches)

Rolex

Robb Report reached out to a handful of dealers to get their take on what Rolex will introduce next week, or, more to the point, what they wish Rolex would introduce. “The entire industry and watch enthusiasts alike wait on the edge of their seats for Rolex to unveil their novelties at the fair,” Joshua Ganjei, chief executive of the pre-owned dealer European Watch Co., says. “It has become such a production, you’d think Barnum and Bailey were behind the scenes orchestrating the event. That said, the crown is truly worn by the king, and admittedly we here at EWC love the show and fanfare.” (As do we!)

Adam Golden, Menta Watches
Every year there are fake leaks, but this seems like a genuine leak: Rolex has a new watch coming out called the Land-Dweller, a reincarnation of the “Texano.” If the leaks are true, the Land-Dweller is the new updated version of that. It’s their revitalization of that case language. 

To understand the Texano, you have to travel back in time to the late ’60s and ’70s when Switzerland was going through the quartz crisis and brands were going out of business. There was a consortium of 20 different brands that got together to create the Beta-21 movement—Patek and Rolex were involved. Rolex made 1,000 pieces of Ref. 5100. They made it in yellow gold (in 750 pieces) and white gold (250 pieces). It was the first time Rolex made a quartz movement. 

We now know the quartz crisis was a blip and mechanical watchmaking shone through. But all these brands dabbled in quartz. In 1970, Rolex released a watch nicknamed the “Texano” and it had a Beta-21 movement. If you look at the leaks about the Land-Dweller, it’s the exact same design language. Will the Land-Dweller be true to form and come out with a quartz movement? I think that would be a homerun. But I don’t think they’ll do it. Plus, I’m not sure about the name Land-Dweller; it doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. 

Jarrod Cooper, Neighborhood Watch Club
Predicting what Rolex will do is always a challenge. Their moves often defy expectations. While they drop subtle hints leading up to their annual releases, these don’t always materialize.

Personally, I’d love to see a solid gold 36 mm Explorer 1. They’ve already brought back the original 36 mm size and introduced a two-tone model, so a solid gold version seems like a logical next step. I know many collectors, myself included, would jump at the chance to own one. On another but highly unlikely note, it would be incredible if Rolex released a standard edition of the “Le Mans” Daytona. Such a stunning watch shouldn’t be limited to a select few.

Paul Altieri, Bob’s Watches
The Rolex GMT-Master, often nicknamed the “Coke” due to its red and black bezel, remains a fan favorite among collectors. Originally introduced in 1955, the GMT-Master series marks its 70th anniversary in 2025, creating a prime opportunity for Rolex to celebrate with a special edition. Given Rolex’s trend of commemorating milestones with precious metal editions (e.g., the 2023 platinum Daytona for the model’s 60th anniversary), a gold or platinum “new Coke” GMT-Master II could be a fitting tribute. Such a release would likely feature Rolex’s proprietary Everose gold or a striking white gold combination. A ceramic bezel insert with deep red and black hues would honor the original design, while modern updates like the Caliber 3285 movement would ensure top-tier performance. Will Rolex seize the moment? Probably not. But dreaming is free, and so is the thrill of wondering what might taxi down the runway this April.

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 debuted in 2023, blending traditional elegance with modern innovation. With Rolex’s reputation for introducing technical complications sparingly yet meaningfully, adding a moonphase feature to the 1908 could align with the brand’s growing emphasis on dress watches. Rolex last incorporated a moonphase in the Cellini Moonphase, launched in 2017. The intricate astronomical complication fits the 1908’s refined aesthetic, which emphasizes minimalist design and precise engineering. A moonphase addition would allow Rolex to rival brands like Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, strengthening its standing in the haute horology space. By integrating a contemporary moonphase display with a timeless gold or platinum case, Rolex could enhance the 1908’s desirability among collectors seeking both classic styling and mechanical artistry.

Formula 1 may have switched lanes to TAG Heuer, but Rolex won’t be lifting off the gas. Expect the Daytona to double down on its racing pedigree—think endurance legends, high-octane colorways, and a nod to the circuits that made it iconic. Because while F1 timing deals come and go, the Daytona’s connection to motorsport is built for the long haul.

Rolex GMT-Master II

Rolex

Joshua Ganjei, European Watch Company
I don’t gamble, but I’ll go out on a limb to predict there will be updates to their sports models, maybe a bejeweled piece and a new color dial. What we would love to see, but I would not wage a single Swiss franc on it, is a revival of the Genta-designed King Midas.

Eugene Tutunikov, SwissWatchExpo
Forecasting Rolex’s strategies is like predicting the weather without looking outside—you’re bound to get it wrong in the short run. In the long run, we know they want to stick to their knitting and not diverge from their storied history too much.

Here are a few guesses but I don’t pretend to own a crystal ball: It is the 70th anniversary of the Rolex GMT-Master first launched in 1955. It would be great if they bring back the Rolex “Coke” on this occasion. They could release either a steel or white gold version, which would be great additions to the lineup. Maybe they will make a platinum GMT-Master II on the occasion as well?

Building on the recent trend of utilizing lighter materials, Rolex could release a titanium version of the Submariner, providing a more lightweight alternative for divers and enthusiasts.

As far as Rolex the company is concerned, I don’t think they will be looking to make any large moves or changes. Certainly no acquisitions that are significant. They are still digesting the acquisition of Bucherer. Rolex loves control and will likely be closing off smaller authorized dealers, putting more pressure on larger ones and giving some preference to their Bucherer-owned stores. I think they will be increasing supply and we will continue to see waitlists shrinking across the board for all Rolex models. 

Andrew Block, Second Time Partners
It doesn’t matter what Rolex introduces. Whatever they create, it will be massive.

Credit: robbreport.com

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